When it came time to choose a destination for our honeymoon, we wanted something special. This trip was a rare opportunity—our toddler stayed at home, so for once, we could travel as we did before starting a family. We dreamed of a place that offered breathtaking hiking trails, delicious food, and unspoiled nature. No need to worry about playgrounds or keeping the little one entertained. Madeira checked every box. We’d heard great recommendations about this Portuguese island from friends and family. Our plan was simple: spend the first and last nights of our trip in Funchal, the island’s charming capital, and use the remaining five days to explore the rest of Madeira by car. And it turned out to be the perfect decision!

After a long flight, we needed to rest, stock up on groceries, and figure out parking for the days ahead. And wow, what an introduction to the city! The streets in Funchal are unbelievably steep, and by the time we reached our apartment after exploring the city, I was already sweating—not from the heat but from imagining myself navigating those narrow, inclined streets.

The weather on our first day in Madeira wasn’t exactly ideal. It quickly confirmed what we’d heard about how unpredictable Madeira’s weather can be. Our main goal for the day was to visit the famous Monte Palace Madeira botanical garden. After a short ride with a crazy local bus driver, I was very happy to get off the bus and finally breathe some fresh air. I was starting to feel motion sickness after all the sharp turns the bus made during the last 15 minutes. Be prepared for a wild ride!

On the way to the botanical garden, we passed the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte, a charming hilltop church. The monument in front of the church is a statue of Emperor Charles I of Austria (Karl I), honoring the last emperor of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. He lived his final days on this island and is buried in the church.

Just at the bottom of the stairs leading to the church, a famous tourist attraction can be found: the wicker toboggans. The 2-kilometer ride down the steep streets of Funchal begins here. When we passed this spot at around 10 a.m. on a Sunday morning, there was no one operating the toboggans. These traditional sled-like vehicles are made of wicker baskets mounted on wooden runners and are used to transport visitors downhill from the village of Monte to the lower streets of Funchal. The journey covers about 2 kilometers and can reach speeds of up to 30 km/h. The drivers, called “Carreiros”, stand behind the sled and use their strength, balance, and rubber-soled boots to steer and control the speed as the toboggan glides down the hill.

The lush greenery, exotic plants, and serene atmosphere made us feel like we’d stepped into a tropical rainforest. The Monte Palace itself was originally built as a luxurious hotel in the late 19th century. However, the hotel faced financial struggles over the years and eventually closed in the mid-20th century. In the late 1980s, José Berardo purchased the property and decided to repurpose it as a botanical garden and cultural site. After its transformation, the gardens opened to visitors in the early 1990s, showcasing a stunning collection of exotic plants, minerals, and contemporary art.

We spent about 2.5 hours wandering through the garden, though we had to take a few breaks to shelter from the rain. The unpredictable weather gave the whole place a moody, almost mystical vibe, making the experience even more unforgettable. The garden offers breathtaking panoramic views of Funchal, the bay, and the Atlantic Ocean. But what surprised me most was the mineral exhibition. I wasn’t expecting to be impressed by rocks, but the creative display truly captivated me. Most specimens were from Brazil, Portugal, and South Africa, and they were absolutely stunning.

In addition to the minerals, there were pavilions showcasing modern and contemporary art, adding an element of surprise to the garden’s natural beauty. The Asian-inspired section of the garden, with its striking red elements, stood out beautifully against the lush green forest background. Another highlight was the succulent garden, where a variety of species were arranged in an incredibly artistic and visually appealing way.

We decided to walk back to Funchal as the weather was improving, and we wanted to explore the city at our own pace. We started on the street beneath the cable car, next to the parking lot of the upper cable car station. From there, we turned left just before the cemetery, following a charming path that ran behind some houses until we reached Caminho do Lombo street. The road quickly became so steep that our calves started burning almost immediately! The area was a lovely residential neighborhood, but despite seeing bus stops along the way, there were no detailed schedules, and we didn’t spot a single bus.

After some effort, we finally reached Miradouro da Tabaiba, a viewpoint offering fantastic vistas of Funchal, the bay, and the cable car route to Monte. It’s said to be one of the best spots to watch the famous New Year’s Eve fireworks.

We continued down Caminho do Lombo, passing underneath the express road. The next part of the walk was the trickiest—there was no sidewalk or safe space for pedestrians for about 200 meters, and the sharp turns made it feel unsafe. We quickly jogged through this stretch to get it over with. Eventually, we reached Rua Pedro José de Ornelas, a street that led us safely toward the city center of Funchal with proper sidewalks. By the time we arrived at our destination—the harbor—we had covered 6 kilometers, descending a total of 550 meters. The sun had come out, and the view of the cruise ships and the shimmering water was absolutely beautiful. Before heading for dinner, we walked through Parque de Santa Catarina, a peaceful spot in the city. It was there we noticed the CR7 Museum, a must-visit for football fans, with its famous statue of Cristiano Ronaldo outside—a statue that, as everyone jokes, looks nothing like him.

After this demanding walk, we rewarded ourselves with a well-deserved dinner at a local restaurant. I couldn’t resist ordering one of the island’s signature dishes—black scabbardfish with banana. At first, the combination felt exciting and unique, but as I made my way through the dish, the banana’s sweetness became a bit overwhelming. Still, it was an experience worth trying and a true taste of Madeira’s culinary creativity.

We also discovered Brisa Maracujá, a popular soft drink made with real passion fruit juice. Its refreshing and sweet flavor perfectly captures the tropical essence of Madeira’s famous passion fruit. Later, we came across the sugar-free version of the same drink, which turned out to be surprisingly tasty—even for someone like me, who doesn’t usually enjoy sugar-free beverages.

I decided to go for an evening run to explore the city before sunset. It was challenging to find a route that wouldn’t involve a demanding ascent, but I eventually chose Fortaleza de São João Baptista do Pico as my destination. The run to the fortress was tough (luckily, also short!), with steep streets that made for a great workout. When I reached the fortress, I found it wasn’t in the best condition. The section offering the best view of the city was under construction, which left me feeling a bit disappointed. However, the effort of running uphill was rewarding in itself. Despite the fortress’s abandoned appearance, the nearby playground and café were full of life, families and children enjoying the evening. From there, I ran towards the harbor and along the waterfront to Forte de São Tiago. The brightly lit streets and lively atmosphere made this part of the run especially enjoyable. However, after passing the fortress, the streets became darker and emptier, so I decided to turn back. I headed uphill toward our apartment, passing many restaurants filled with people enjoying their dinners. It was the perfect way to end such an adventurous day—combining exercise, exploration, and the vibrant energy of Funchal in the evening.

We explored Rua de Santa Maria, one of the oldest streets in Funchal, during our evening walk the other day. In 2010, the government launched an initiative called “Art of Open Doors” as a way to revitalize the street and bring new life to the Old Town area. Local and international artists were invited to paint the doors of the buildings, transforming the street into an open-air art gallery.

It’s worth walking down this street both in the morning and evening, as different places might be closed or open, revealing interesting paintings like The Little Prince, The Mermaid Door, grape harvest scenes, Funchal’s history and culture, or depictions of the sea life surrounding the island. The street is full of souvenir shops, restaurants, cafés, and bars, and it becomes especially lively in the evenings when locals and tourists gather for dinner and drinks.

You can explore Funchal by foot, taxi, cable car, and even tuk-tuks. These three-wheeled vehicles are a popular and eco-friendly way to navigate the city and its surroundings, as they can easily maneuver through the narrow streets of the Old Town. Tuk-tuks in Funchal are operated by various companies and drivers, often offering guided tours to help visitors discover key attractions.

They’re an excellent option for people with mobility issues or for those who find it challenging to walk up the city’s steep streets. While taking a break at the Lazareto viewpoint, we noticed a couple who had arrived by tuk-tuk. They paused for about five minutes as their driver gave them an explanation about the city before heading off to their next destination.

The fortress Forte de São Tiago, with its striking bright yellow color, stands out beautifully against the blue waters of the Atlantic and the green hills of Madeira. I particularly enjoyed visiting this spot during my evening run for its peaceful vibe, where visitors can soak up the atmosphere, watch the sunset, or observe cruise ships and fishing boats in the harbor. During the day, the fort offers spectacular views of the ocean, the city, and the surrounding mountains. Inside, there is a restaurant that provides a unique dining experience, and the fort is also used for events, exhibitions, and other cultural activities.

We were absolutely amazed by the variety of fruits available in shops, even in supermarkets, which tasted so much better than the ones in Belgium. Fruit shops, called “Frutaria,” caught our attention every time we passed them. Our favorite fruit was the local papaya.Our last day was reserved for shopping, and one of the places we were eager to visit was Mercado dos Lavradores. This famous market offers an impressive array of exotic fruits, such as passion fruit, annona (custard apple) , and the intriguing banana-pineapple hybrids. Vendors often let you sample their offerings, but prices can be significantly higher than elsewhere—so be cautious about overpaying, as prices can easily be double those at street stalls or in frutarias.

While the market is popular among locals, some parts, particularly the fruit stalls, are more geared toward tourists. We visited on a Saturday, one of the liveliest days when locals and tourists alike gather. The energy and vibrant atmosphere added to the market’s charm, despite the crowds. Stalls displayed beautifully arranged fruits, dried herbs, peppers, and flowers, creating a feast for the eyes! For those who prefer a quieter experience, visiting earlier in the morning or on a weekday might be a better option.

Although we weren’t planning to buy fruit at the market due to the high prices, we discovered that the ground floor is an excellent spot to purchase flower bulbs. The flower stalls were especially colorful, showcasing tropical blooms like the famous strelitzias (bird-of-paradise). Women dressed in multi-colored striped dresses selling these flowers added a touch of tradition to the experience. Just by the entrance, stunning azulejos (traditional tiles) depict how the market looked in the past, giving visitors a glimpse into its history. If you’re a gardening enthusiast, make sure to check out the ground floor, where you can buy flower bulbs to take home. Strelitzia bulbs, in particular, make for a unique souvenir that’s sure to remind you of Madeira long after your trip.

One of the most fascinating sections of the market is the seafood area. Here, you’ll find a variety of fish you might never have seen before. The star attraction is the black scabbardfish, or “espada,” a deep-sea species that has been a staple of Madeiran cuisine for centuries. Its long, slender body, black skin, and sharp teeth give it an almost mythical appearance. Found at depths of up to 1,500 meters in the North Atlantic, this fish is caught by skilled local fishermen using traditional methods. Despite its unusual look, the flesh of the black scabbardfish is tender, mild, and white, making it perfect for a range of delicious dishes—from the classic espada with banana to other creative preparations you’ll find in Madeiran restaurants. Interestingly, the black scabbardfish is found only around Madeira and near Japan.

I spent yesterday afternoon exploring another side of the coastline, heading toward Câmara de Lobos. My second run took me to the Doca do Cavacas Natural Pools. The entire route followed a pleasant sidewalk, passing several large hotels with swimming pools and stunning ocean views. Along the bustling road, there were also restaurants and souvenir shops.

The Doca do Cavacas Natural Pools were a smaller version of the ones we visited in Porto Moniz. On the way, I also passed another set of outdoor pools called “Ponta Gorda Lido.” Both locations displayed the same information board with prices, so they must be part of a chain of swimming pools. These pools also had sections designed for toddlers.

Practical info:

  • Transportation: We used Bolt to get from the airport to Funchal in the evening for 19 euros. In the morning, we paid more (29 euros) because fewer cars were available, and we also reserved one for a specific time.

  • Accommodation: We rented our apartment on Airbnb, and it was the best one we’ve ever stayed in! The address was R. Elias Garcia 15. Top floor/ocean view 1Bdr condo walk to downtown 2

  • Car Rental: we rented a car via Wyspa Madera from the Adratica rental company. The cost for a class A car rented for five days was 185 euros, plus extra insurance for tires, windows, and side mirrors at 5 euros per day. We were lucky to receive a Nissan Micra Turbo (class C), which was perfect for the steep streets.

  • Parking: We left the rented car at the nearby underground Parking Santa Luzia every night (Rua 5 de Outubro, São Martinho, 9000-216 Funchal, Portugal). We always paid 4.5 euros (cash only). Note that many spaces are reserved and clearly labeled with banners hanging above them. Only once did we need to drive to the bottom level, as the ground floor was full (this was after 20:00). Parking a small car is fine, but larger vehicles might be challenging to maneuver.

  • For more details about wicker toboggan rides along Carreiros do Monte Street, check here

  • Visit the Jardim Monte Palace Madeira official website for details. Ticket price: 15 euros per person. We took a local bus from the R 31 Janeiro Finanças (9C) bus stop, line 21 (line 20 also goes the same direction). The ride took about 13 minutes and cost 1.95 euros from the driver.

  • We decided not to try the Funchal Cable Car because the price was quite high. Since we’ve experienced cable cars in other countries, we didn’t consider it an essential attraction. We also heard that Madeira offers so many amazing views that this one can be skipped. Every time we passed the bottom station of the cable car, there was a long queue. Plus, the 13-minute bus ride was exciting, as it navigated narrow streets full of cars. The local driver’s skill in maneuvering sharp turns was impressive.

  • Restaurants we visited:
    • Restaurante Informal: We arrived 15 minutes before opening and barely managed to get a table. This place doesn’t take reservations, so if you miss the first wave of seating when it opens, your name will be added to a list, and you’ll need to return about 1.5 hours later. We stayed for 1 hour and 20 minutes, and by the time we left, there were already people waiting outside for a free table.
    • Rei da Poncha: The Nikita drink was our favorite (mix of pineapple juice, beer and vanilla ice cream)!
    • Rota 23 Hamburgueria The only place still open after 10 p.m. near our apartment when we arrived from the airport. It turned out to be a very nice spot.
    • Bar “O Avô” -Tasty scabbard fish with banana and Espetada de Frango. Fair prices and great service. However, seeing two cockroaches on the way to the toilet was not a pleasant experience. Address: R. Da Praia 49A, São Martinho, 9000-643 Funchal, Portugal
    • Casa do Bolo do Caco - delicious bolo do caco sandwiches as a great alternative for quick lunch or snack, great way of using the bolo do caco. Essentially, the traditional Bolo do Caco flatbread is sliced in half and filled with a variety of savory ingredients to create a sandwich, we tried one with beef. Address: Rua Dr. Fernão de Ornelas 26, 9050-021 Funchal, Portugal

  • Shops: Frutaria Seminário - Frutas, Verduras e Legumes - A nice place to buy fruit. Be sure to check whether the fruit is local or imported if you want to try Madeiran produce. They sold tasty local papaya (in small pieces), but by the evening, almost everything was gone. Address: R. do Seminário 16, 9000-053 Funchal, Portugal

  • Useful websites:
  • Fresh fruits, alcohol, plant bulbs, cork items… and, of course, memories!
  • The Doca do Cavacas Natural Pools: entrance fee 5,70euro for adults. Children below 6 enters for free, 7-17y pays only 1.90euro.
  • Details of the runs:

Run in the old city center - 7km, 236m ascent Run along the coast line - 11km, 187m ascent